Niagara Falls in the Fall

Niagara Falls in the Fall: Waterfalls, Ice Hockey, Buffalo Chicken and Way Too Much Eating

There are family holidays where you come home feeling rested, refreshed and vaguely smug about how well everything went.

And then there are family holidays where you come home with hundreds of photos of waterfalls, two children who now believe every drink should come with unlimited refills, a suitcase full of American snacks, and the ability to shout, “LET’S GO BUFFALO!” at entirely inappropriate moments.

Our trip to Niagara Falls was definitely the second kind.

We headed to Niagara Falls last autumn, travelling as a family of four and staying on the American side at the Sheraton Niagara Falls, USA. The autumn colours were beginning to appear, there was that lovely crisp chill in the air, and Niagara Falls was every bit as spectacular as we had imagined.

Actually, spectacular doesn’t really cover it.

You can see pictures of Niagara Falls a thousand times, but nothing quite prepares you for the sound.

The sheer volume of water.

The spray.

The roar.

The scale.

And the fact that you can be standing quietly taking in one of the world’s great natural wonders while your children are arguing about who gets the biggest pancake.

Welcome to family travel.

Staying at the Sheraton Niagara Falls, USA

Our base was the Sheraton Niagara Falls, right on the American side of the Falls. We found it a really convenient base for our family, giving us somewhere comfortable to return to after busy days exploring Niagara Falls, the surrounding attractions and Buffalo. The pool is the biggest in the area and gave us some much needed down time at various points of the days.

We deliberately stayed on the American side and really enjoyed having the Falls and the wider Niagara area right on our doorstep. And because we were visiting in autumn, having somewhere comfortable to retreat to after a busy day outside was particularly welcome.

One thing worth mentioning for anyone planning their own trip: make sure you’re booking the Sheraton Niagara Falls, New York, rather than one of the similarly named hotels on the Canadian side. With Niagara Falls straddling an international border, it’s surprisingly easy to get confused when you’re researching accommodation.

Niagara Falls: Seeing It for the First Time

Nothing quite prepares you for that first view.

We headed towards Niagara Falls State Park, and suddenly there they were.

The American Falls.

Bridal Veil Falls.

And across the river, the enormous Horseshoe Falls.

Pictures really don’t do it justice. The Falls are loud, powerful and completely mesmerising. We found ourselves just standing there watching them for ages. The children, meanwhile, were alternating between being genuinely awestruck and asking what we were having for lunch.

Which felt about right.

Niagara Falls State Park gives you lots of different ways to experience the Falls, from viewpoints and walking trails to the various attractions within the park. And visiting in autumn made it even more beautiful. The changing leaves added another layer of colour to the scenery, while the cooler temperatures made walking around much more pleasant than it can be in the height of summer.

Our tip: don’t treat Niagara Falls as a quick photo stop.

Allow yourself time to wander.

Stop at different viewpoints.

Take the obligatory family photograph.

Take another one because someone blinked.

And then another because the children have somehow moved out of the frame.

Maid of the Mist: Getting Very, Very Wet

If you’re visiting Niagara Falls with children, Maid of the Mist needs to be on your list. Actually, it needs to be near the top. This isn’t a gentle sightseeing cruise where you float past some nice scenery.

You head towards the Falls.

Very close to the Falls.

Ponchos are provided.

And you will need them…. It felt like we had just sailed into a hurricane! I expected a certain level of force and power from the falls but the true intensity of them literally blew me away.

The Maid of the Mist takes you past the American Falls and into the basin of the Horseshoe Falls, giving you an incredible view of the water from below. The children absolutely loved it. There is something about standing on a boat while an enormous wall of water crashes down around you that makes a family holiday feel like an adventure.

The ponchos do their best. But this is Niagara Falls. Water finds a way. Take a waterproof phone pouch or dry bag and wear shoes you’re happy to get wet. And pack spare clothes.

Niagara Falls State Park

One of the things we enjoyed most was simply walking around the park. You don’t have to spend the entire day paying for attractions. Some of the best parts of Niagara are simply about being there.

Walk.

Explore the viewpoints.

Watch the boats.

Admire the Falls.

Take it all in.

With children, this gives everyone a chance to slow down between the bigger attractions. Niagara can be quite full-on. There are crowds, noise, water, boats, shops, restaurants and attractions everywhere. So having some time simply walking around the park was a welcome change of pace. And if the children start moaning about walking, just promise them food at the end.... Works every time.

Getting Around Niagara: Car, Shuttle, Uber and a Very Happy Husband

This is one area where I’d definitely recommend thinking about your transport before you go. There is a free Discover Niagara Shuttle which connects various attractions around Niagara County, and in the right season it looks like a really useful option for visitors who don’t want to drive. Unfortunately, we’d arrived after the shuttle had finished for the season. So we didn’t get to use it.

Instead, we’d tied our Niagara Falls trip into a bigger road trip through Canada and hired ourselves the biggest American truck we could possibly get our hands on.

I have honestly never seen my husband so happy.

Give a man an enormous American truck and an open road and apparently, you’ve made his holiday.

And actually, having the car turned out to be incredibly useful. We found car hire surprisingly cheap and straightforward, and the roads around the area were lovely to drive on. It also gave us the freedom to explore much more in our own time rather than organising our days around public transport. And, of course, it meant we could do even more shopping at the mall. Which was obviously essential.

My personal experience was that public transport wasn’t particularly impressive considering how much there is to see in the area. If you’re staying right around Niagara Falls itself, you can certainly do a lot on foot, but once you want to venture further afield, having your own wheels makes life much easier.

When we didn’t want to drive, we found Uber and taxis plentiful, easy to use and reasonably priced, so we weren’t completely tied to the truck.

We also flew in and out of Toronto, and when we priced everything up, the cost of hiring the car for the whole week actually worked out cheaper than booking airport transfers both ways.

So for us, it was a no-brainer.

Our tip: if you’re flying into Toronto and planning to spend several days exploring Niagara and beyond, price up a rental car before automatically booking airport transfers. You may find that the car gives you considerably more freedom for not much more money — or, as in our case, actually less.

Just remember that if you’re taking a rental car across the US/Canada border, you need to check with your rental company in advance that cross-border travel is permitted and that you’ve got the appropriate insurance and paperwork.

Crossing the Border: One Day, Two Countries

One of the slightly surreal things about staying in Niagara Falls is just how close you are to another country.

You’re in the USA.

Then you cross a bridge.

And suddenly you’re in Canada.

It sounds ridiculously simple.

And, in many ways, it is.

But you are still crossing an international border, so it’s important to treat it like one. We crossed back and forth between the American and Canadian sides during our trip, and it became completely normal for us. In fact, one of the children’s favourite things was probably the fact that we could have lunch in New York State and dinner in Canada.

Two countries.

Two meals.

Same day.

Apparently, this is what international travel looks like when you’re eight.

Or ten.

Or just very enthusiastic about food.

We generally found the crossings straightforward, but you do need to allow time for border control, particularly at busy periods. Have everyone’s passports and travel documents easily accessible and remember that border officers can ask about where you’re staying, where you’re going and what you’re doing. If you’re travelling with children, make sure you have the documents required for your circumstances, and check the current entry requirements for both countries before your trip. Requirements can vary depending on nationality and how you’re travelling. And don’t forget that crossing back into the USA is another border crossing.

It isn’t a case of crossing into Canada once and then wandering freely between the two countries for the rest of your holiday.

We actually enjoyed the novelty of it.

There was something quite fun about being able to say:

“We’re having lunch in America today.”

Then a few hours later:

“We’re having dinner in Canada.”

The children thought this was brilliant.

Clifton Hill: Where the Kids Take Over

Then there is Clifton Hill.

If Niagara Falls is nature showing off, Clifton Hill is humans showing off.

It’s bright.

It’s loud.

It’s colourful.

It’s packed with attractions.

And children absolutely love it.

Clifton Hill is Niagara Falls’ entertainment district, with arcades, mini golf, rides, wax museums, restaurants and the Niagara SkyWheel.

It’s basically impossible to walk down the street with children without hearing:

“Can we do that?”

“Can we go in there?”

“How much is that?”

“Can I have another go?”

We quickly discovered that the trick is not trying to do everything. Because you can’t. Pick a few things that everyone actually wants to do and enjoy them properly. The area is particularly fun once it gets dark, when the lights and attractions really come alive. After a day of waterfalls and walking, it felt completely different — more like stepping into a giant family amusement park. And yes, we spent money. Obviously.

The Fallsview Indoor Waterpark

Because apparently Niagara Falls wasn’t enough water for one holiday, we also headed to the Fallsview Indoor Waterpark. This was a huge hit with the children, particularly because we were visiting in autumn.

Outside was chilly.

Inside was tropical.

The children were in heaven.

The waterpark is a huge indoor family attraction with waterslides, a wave pool and play areas, so it was a great change of pace from sightseeing. And after a day or two of walking around Niagara, nobody complained about spending some time in the warm water.

A Day Trip to Buffalo

Then we decided to venture a little further afield and spend a day in Buffalo, New York. And this was one of my favourite parts of the trip because it gave us something completely different from Niagara Falls.

We had waterfalls.

Now we wanted history.

And food.

Obviously food.

Buffalo Naval & Military Park

Our first stop was the Buffalo & Erie County Naval & Military Park. If your children have any interest in ships, submarines or military history, this is well worth a visit. The park is home to historic vessels including the USS Little Rock, USS The Sullivans and USS Croaker, as well as military exhibits.

We wondered around the war memorials and studied the details of the planes and boats on display, taking it all in as we went.

When in Buffalo… Eat Buffalo Chicken

Now, we couldn’t possibly visit Buffalo without eating Buffalo chicken.

I mean…

When in Rome.

Or Buffalo.

Same principle.

Buffalo chicken is, of course, associated with Buffalo, and the city takes its wings very seriously.

So naturally we had to try them. And yes, there is something wonderfully satisfying about eating Buffalo wings in Buffalo. It may not be the world’s most profound cultural experience, but when you’re travelling with children, sometimes these are the moments that become the stories you tell afterwards.

“Remember when we went to Buffalo and ate Buffalo chicken?”

Exactly.

And after all that American food, we were beginning to accept that vegetables were probably going to have to wait until we got home anyway.

Buffalo Sabres: Our American Ice Hockey Experience

And then came the big one. Ice hockey. We went to watch the Buffalo Sabres. If you’ve never been to an NHL hockey game before, it is an experience in itself.

The atmosphere starts before you even get inside.

Then you walk into the arena and suddenly there are enormous screens, music, lights, crowds, food and ice.

Lots of ice.

The children absolutely loved the spectacle of it.

And then the game starts.

It is FAST.

Very fast.

Even if you’re not a huge hockey fan, it’s difficult not to get swept up in the atmosphere.

We cheered.

We shouted.

We tried to keep track of what was happening.

And, naturally, we joined in with:

LET’S GO BUFFALO!

Did we understand every rule?

No comment.

Did we enjoy it?

Absolutely.

Seeing the Sabres play was one of those experiences that made the trip feel like more than simply visiting a tourist destination.

We weren’t just looking at America through a tourist’s eyes.

For a few hours, we were sitting in an American sports arena, eating arena food and shouting for the home team.

And that’s exactly the sort of memory you don’t get from a guidebook.

Mum Gets Her Shopping Trip

Now, let’s address something very important. A family holiday has to contain at least one activity that Mum actually wants to do. And when in the USA it will always be shopping. There were plenty of opportunities for retail therapy around the Niagara/Buffalo area, and I was more than happy to investigate. The children, naturally, were less enthusiastic.

But this is where parenting negotiations come into play.

You do the terrifying water slides at the water park.

Then I gets the shops.

Everyone wins.

Well…

I win, Which is the important thing.

If you’re planning a shopping trip, leave some spare space in your suitcase. American shopping plus children plus souvenirs equals luggage trouble. Consider yourself warned.

The Great American Breakfast

One of the most entertaining parts of the trip was introducing the children to American breakfasts. And this is where Dunkin’ entered their lives. We discovered the joy of American breakfast food and the children’s enthusiasm for doughnuts.

Breakfast sandwiches.

Hash browns.

Doughnuts.

Huge drinks.

And enough choice to make deciding what to eat feel like a major life decision. The children were fascinated by it. We were entertained by their enthusiasm. And nobody complained about having to get up for breakfast. It became part of the holiday.

You know you’re on an American family adventure when breakfast involves a pancake and a drink bigger than your child’s head.

Embracing All-American Cuisine

One of the things we deliberately wanted to do was embrace the American food experience.

So we did.

Burgers.

Fries.

Pizza.

Chicken.

Pancakes.

Doughnuts.

Buffalo wings.

And absolutely enormous drinks.

And then there was the discovery that some restaurants offer bottomless sodas.

The children’s reaction was priceless.

In Britain, you order a drink.

You drink it.

It’s gone.

In America:

“Would you like a refill?”

The children looked at us as though we’d just announced that Christmas had been moved to tomorrow.

“ANOTHER ONE?”

Yes.

Apparently.

And another.

And another.

Eventually we had to explain that “bottomless” was not actually a personal challenge.

They disagreed.

Our Family Tips for Niagara Falls

After doing the trip ourselves, these are the things we’d tell anyone planning Niagara Falls with children.

Take waterproof bags

Your phone does not want to go swimming.

Niagara does not care.

Protect your valuables.

Wear sensible shoes

You will walk much more than you think.

And if you’re doing Maid of the Mist, expect your shoes to get wet.

Take spare clothes

Especially for the boat.

The poncho helps.

It does not create an impenetrable force field.

Don’t over-plan

There is so much to do that it can be tempting to fill every minute.

Don’t.

Some of our favourite moments were simply wandering around, stopping for food or taking in the Falls.

Allow time for the Falls themselves

Don’t race from attraction to attraction.

Give yourselves time to stand and watch the water.

It really is the main event.

Think about transport before you arrive

If you’re staying right around the Falls, you can walk to plenty of attractions.

If you’re planning to explore further afield, particularly Buffalo or the shopping malls, a car gives you much more freedom. The free Niagara shuttle is another option when it’s operating, but check the seasonal timetable before relying on it.

If you’re hiring a car, check the border rules

If you plan to drive between the USA and Canada, tell the rental company before you book.

Make sure cross-border travel is permitted and that you have the correct insurance and documentation.

Allow extra time for border crossings

If you’re staying on the American side and visiting the Canadian side — or vice versa — remember that you’re crossing an international border. Make sure everyone has the appropriate travel documents and check the current entry requirements before travelling, even though it can feel like you’re simply driving across town.

Have passports and travel documents ready and check the current requirements before you travel.

Clifton Hill is great — but expensive

The attractions quickly add up.

Set a budget and let the children choose what they really want to do.

Check attraction dates and opening times

Some Niagara attractions are seasonal or operate on specific schedules, so check before setting your itinerary.

Plan a Buffalo day

If you’ve got enough time, getting away from Niagara Falls for a day gives the holiday a completely different feel.

If you’re in Buffalo, eat Buffalo chicken

This one isn’t really a tip.

It’s a rule.

Leave room in the suitcase

For Mum.

For the children.

For the snacks.

For everything you didn’t know you were going to buy.

Remember that you can have two countries in one day

One of the joys of Niagara is being able to experience both sides of the border.

Lunch in New York.

Dinner in Canada.

Two countries.

One very well-fed family.

Our Favourite Thing About Niagara Falls With Kids

The best thing about this trip wasn’t any single attraction.

It was the variety.

One minute we were standing in front of one of the world’s most incredible natural wonders.

The next we were getting soaked on a boat.

Would We Do It Again?

Without a doubt.

Niagara Falls in autumn was a incredible family trip.

The Falls were breath-taking.

The boat trip was unforgettable.

Clifton Hill provided the chaos.

The waterpark provided the fun.

Buffalo gave us history, food and ice hockey.

America gave them bottomless soda.

Canada gave us another country to explore just across the bridge.

Everyone got something.

And that’s probably the secret to a successful family holiday.

It doesn’t have to be perfect.

It just has to give everyone something they’ll remember.

For us, it was the roar of Niagara Falls, the spray from the Maid of the Mist, the lights of Clifton Hill, the excitement of the hockey arena, the taste of Buffalo chicken, the enormous American truck, the novelty of crossing the border and the sight of two very happy children discovering that apparently, in America, the drinks really can be bottomless.

And somewhere amongst all of that, we made the kind of family memories that are worth far more than anything we brought home in our suitcases.

Although the shopping definitely helped.

Until next time, Niagara.

And yes…

LET’S GO BUFFALO!